May

2008

Part Seven

Anchorages on Ibiza

May 28, 2008

We left Puerto Ibiza at 11:15 am in clouds hoping for sun as we searched out a cala to anchor for the night. Ideal winds of 12-18 kts. from the south as we headed north were a good thing. We stayed on a beam reach to enjoy the sailing and stretch out the adventure a bit since the calas were all quite close. The afternoon brought brighter skies although it didn't warm up too much.

Our first anchorage was the long and narrow Cala Llonga. From the sea we did not find the entrance until we were directly east of it and could see the white apartments and hotels at the end above the long, sandy beach. Reportedly safe in nearly all conditions, we thought it might be crowded. We were alone until a sailboat flying a Chech Republic flag came in and anchored near us. They stayed for a few hours and then weighed anchor leaving Tenaya alone in the anchorage. We had a bit of fetch and wind. The air was a little too cool with a breeze, and the water a bit too cold to go swimming. We enjoyed the scenery and had a peaceful afternoon and evening. The anchor alarm went off twice during the night. We hadn't dragged just swung around with the anchor staying firm in the sand. Although this was a beautiful cala we are in search of those that are rugged and natural - no hotels, no restaurants, no rows of beach chaises.

Looking out of the anchorage at Cala Llonga

The long, sandy beach at the end of Cala Llonga

May 29, 2008

We had a glorious day sailing along the eastern coast of Ibiza today. Winds 10-16 knots from abaft the beam until we rounded Punta Grosa where we had 18 kts. on the beam. What fun!

Sailing between Cap Roig and Isla Tagomago

We found a rugged and isolated anchorage! Clot d'es Llamp is just past the popular, touristic Cala Vicente but feels miles away from civilization. High cliffs to the south are protecting us from southerly winds of 15-20 kts. We are floating calmly on the hook, again the only boat in the anchorage. We could see the sand and rocks on the bottom where we carefully dropped the anchor in 9 meters of water.

Tenaya at anchor in Clot d'es Llamp

The tower at the head of Clot d'es Llamp anchorage

As soon as Tenaya was settled we dug out the snorkeling gear and hopped off the stern. The water is a bit chilly but still warm enough without a spring suit if you keep moving. It is very clear. Finally ... snorkeling in clear water! We have been waiting two years for this moment. An interesting grotto was nearby so I (Katie) couldn't wait to have a look. It was peaceful gliding over the underwater rocks close to shore and then entering the darkened grotto. I heard nothing but my own breathing and the mysterious crackling noise we also hear on board. I half expected to find bats hanging from the ceiling and other creatures but I was alone save for a few fish with vertical black stripes swimming among the rocks below me.

Katie explored the nearby grotto

Another place I had to explore was between this small island and the shore. The steep, underwater walls of the island were covered with plant life and the depth was a shallow 3-4 meters over the rocks on the bottom.

Pine tree topped cliffs plunge into the sea

This is a gorgeous anchorage. The steep rock cliffs have amazing patterns from the rock being uplifted and twisted over the ages. We just keep looking in awe and pointing out newly found elaborate folds.

Another view of Tenaya at anchor in Clot d'es Llamp

Day two brought more exploration, this time by dinghy. The pine tree topped cliffs, interesting rocks, crystal clear water and exciting grottos made for a wonderful ride. Later we were back in the water snorkeling.

As Jim was beginning to prepare dinner we noticed a fast, official looking boat come into the anchorage and stop about 500 meters from us. It stayed there for quite some time . I looked at them through the binoculars and saw a person at their bow looking at us through binoculars. There was a word written on the side of their boat. The dictionary says aduanas are customs officials, kind of what we thought. Eventually three motored up to us in their dinghy, the large boat staying somewhat off. Two boarded and asked for our passports and ships papers. We complied and they filled out some forms. The senior man seemed to like the anchorage and told us that he saw many large rays here and gave us the name of the curious silver fish with black stripes at their tails - dobladas. He said they are delicious to eat. We're going to have to take up fishing I guess. Without going below they thanked us and stepped back into their dinghy. By now their mother ship was very close and I waved to the three men on board. They all waved back vigorously. The dinghy didn't go immediately to the mother ship, instead the two roared off seeming to be enjoying themselves.

A cormorant suns itself

At night we haul the dinghy onto the deck using the storm jib halyard. At dusk after a leisurely dinner we set out to bring it aboard. It was tough for me to haul the dinghy up and over the lifelines so Jim figured there must be water in the hull. He waited until it was on deck and pulled the plug. A torrential gush poured out. And kept pouring. I saw the main saloon hatch was open so quickly stomped on it and turned the handles shut. Not sure about open ports I went below. Yikes! Water was cascading in the first three port side ports. I slammed them all shut but not before the settee cushions had puddles, the carpet was soaked and the chart table was awash. In the process my two layers were soaked from my wrists to my armpits. I grabbed the cockpit sponge and lots of towels and started soaking. Fortunately the computer had been put away when we saw the aduanas and the iPod was on top of a book so no electronics were ruined. Salt water does not dry completely and will start to smell badly if not removed. I dried and washed everything including all that was stored under the port settee. Two pillows were sopping wet so I washed their brightly colored covers and set the stuffing out to dry. My leisurely evening turned into an unexpected laundry and washing project. All linens and clothing were hung in the head until the rain stopped the next day and I could hang them out on the lifelines to dry. Excitement comes in many different forms and not always pleasant.

Jim's first underwater photo session. These curious fish are called dobladas

It is nice to have a fresh water shower at the stern to rinse ourselves and our gear

It was interesting to finally see our anchor at work. In about 30 feet of water it was easy to spot while snorkeling above and reassuring to see it set firmly in the hard sand bottom. Swimming under Tenaya and inspecting the prop was another first. The new bottom paint still looks good ... well except for the back of the keel where it has been scraped off. This confirms our suspicions that it was the keel that held us connected to our neighbors mooring line as we tried to leave Almerimar. We were bow first then and had to back out. It is nice for privacy in the cockpit but now we moor stern to the quay so it is easier to leave. Live and learn.

By our night three other sailboats had joined us in the anchorage, Cynian's Quest from South Africa and three British boats. Ian and Cynthia from Cynian's Quest had us over for a drink and we enjoyed it very much. Monday looks to have favorable winds for the 60 mile trip over to Mallorca.

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